Forum Thread
(Lake Martin Specific)
111,230 messages
Updated 10/1/2024 3:25:28 AM
Lakes Online Forum
84,005 messages
Updated 10/7/2024 5:02:23 PM
Lakes Online Forum
5,204 messages
Updated 9/14/2024 10:10:50 AM
(Lake Martin Specific)
4,171 messages
Updated 5/29/2024 10:51:34 PM
Lakes Online Forum
4,172 messages
Updated 9/9/2024 5:04:44 PM
Lakes Online Forum
4,261 messages
Updated 5/28/2024 6:31:10 AM
Lakes Online Forum
2,979 messages
Updated 6/26/2024 5:03:03 AM
(Lake Martin Specific)
169 messages
Updated 5/31/2023 1:39:35 PM
Lakes Online Forum
98 messages
Updated 4/15/2024 1:00:58 AM
Lake Martin Photo Gallery





    
Name:   powmar - Email Member
Subject:   BoatDoctor
Date:   9/2/2004 1:35:23 PM

Any advice on how to insert packing on the inboard shaft mount? I'm not sure I even have the right words but any advice would be appreciated.



Name:   4thelake - Email Member
Subject:   BoatDoctor
Date:   9/7/2004 7:44:11 PM

I just did one. But before I describe it, lets make sure we are on the same page....Is it a full imboard direct drive ski boat, IE Nautique or Mastercraft or Malibu?



Name:   powmar - Email Member
Subject:   BoatDoctor
Date:   9/8/2004 11:38:25 AM

American Skier 1982 inboard

I put the flax in this weekend and it seemed to work. I guessed on the width and lenght. Overwrapped about a quarter turn.

I was told to take the old wrap out, but I either 1) didn't have any or 2) wasn't able to get a good enough grip on it to pull it out. So I just put the new wrap in. I'm somewhat concerned since I should have a small drip and I haven't been able to detect a drip at all. (it was previously spilling in like a garden hose)

thanks



Name:   4thelake - Email Member
Subject:   BoatDoctor
Date:   9/8/2004 2:08:31 PM

You gotta get the old stuff out. Its in the packing nut. Never overlap. Measure just enough to go around. An american skier uses 3 to 5 rings and the breaks in the joints are staggered. I really dont see any leaks from mine either but 1 or 2 a minuet are recomended. You gotta get the overlap out and redo it or you may be in for a real problem.



Name:   powmar - Email Member
Subject:   BoatDoctor
Date:   9/8/2004 2:56:31 PM

Thanks. I think the packing I just put in is under the "packing nut." Before installing, I pulled out a plastic washer that was free. I didn't see anything else under that , but I'm not entirely sure. Is that washer the "packing nut?" You say I should have three to five layered on top of each other and the packing flax under that?

What problems do you think I'll encounter if I leave as it is now?

Thanks



Name:   powmar - Email Member
Subject:   BoatDoctor
Date:   9/8/2004 3:04:19 PM

maybe flax isn't the right term. I mean the packing rope....not sure where I picked up that word



Name:   Just Add Water - Email Member
Subject:   BoatDoctor
Date:   9/8/2004 3:35:17 PM

My experience is with industrial pumps, but it should apply here, as well. Packing-type seals are designed to leak to some extent, such as a drip or two. This minor leakage is necessary to keep the packing lubricated. If the packing dries out, the friction from the turning shaft will overheat and harden the packing. When that happens, it loses its ability to properly seal, and you'll soon have a major leak. Also, the hardened, non-lubricated packing can damage the shaft (actually roughening up and wearing grooves into the shaft) to the point of making the leak worse, and making it harder to obtain a good seal, even with new packing.
I would strongly suggest re-packing, with new packing. When the packing nut is properly tightened against the packing, you want to still be able to see roughly one quarter to one third of its threads visible, so you have room to tighten further as the packing compresses with use.







Quick Links
Lake Martin News
Lake Martin Photos
Lake Martin Videos




About Us
Contact Us
Site Map
Search Site
Advertise With Us
   
www.LakeMartin.com
THE LAKE MARTIN WEBSITE

Copyright 2024, Lakes Online
Privacy    |    Legal